The River That Swallows Gringos

Aqui estoy mis amigos. Thanks to Crumpetina I have a new SPOT device. Here I am:

Once again I must apologize for my failure to report. Even now I can only write the briefest summary though I am working on something more thorough including  description of the many happenings back in Belize.

“The river that swallows gringos” is one name by which the Rio Dulce is known to Guatemalans. It nearly swallowed me. I was sick for most of a month (probably Dengue fever; as in most cases it was unpleasant but not serious); in between bouts and after it was over I worked on projects aboard Samphire, then three weeks ago I hauled Desesperado out on  a dock at a dilapidated marina and dismantled, strengthened, modified, repaired, repainted and reassembled him in preparation for the Honduran coast ahead which promises to be a very tough beat against the wind for 300 miles before turning the corner at Cabo Gracias a Dios and reaching down the coast of Nicaragua. I also made a new sail out of dacron and dumped the old polytarp one which had served so well but was wearing out. This has all been a horrible amount of work, long hours, no fun… I am not sure that fun is to be had in Guatemala anyway. This, the town of Fronteras on the Rio Dulce is kind of a ghastly place; I will try to write about it from Honduras. I relaunched this morning and did some trials and am determined to escape this river and regain the open sea within a day or two. Panama or bust.


7 thoughts on “The River That Swallows Gringos

  1. My prayers are answered!!!! I have been praying to all the gods I do not believe in and have been thinking of sacrificing a virgin in hopes we would hear from you again. Glad to have you back with us — and with a SPOT!! How did Crumpetina manage to get the new SPOT to you? Must have been convoluted with you not having a fixed address.

    I read up on Denge, and it is nasty stuff. Called “Break Bone Fever” for a reason. I understand that if you get one kind it gives you lifelong immunity to that variety. There are three varieties, however. 😦

    Anxious to hear how your long beat to windward will go, as well as your adventures for the last couple of months.. Glad you have a new sail, which hopefully will let you point a bit higher.

  2. Hey mate, thanks for the update. More power to you and well done on the refit. Looking forward to the full report, regards from groover

  3. Nice to read your new report. For what it is worth, I don’t know you but I check in everyday. My husband and I leave for Isla Mujeres in a few weeks. Maybe Belize next year.

    I feel your Dad’s worry for you…

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