Mujeres, Prison Isle

I tried to escape today. More than three weeks of relentless high winds and rain were finally supposed to break today according to WindGURU. At least the wind was supposed to moderate and I was prepared to accept the rain.

(Actually we did have a weird calm day yesterday, so calm that no sailing was possible at all. I insinuated myself into a dinghy and spent some hours bringing yachts back into the harbor from the lagoon where they’d been sheltering from the tropical storm.)

But WindGURU was wrong. As I loaded the boat another howler sprang up which went on most of the day, to be replaced by rain late in the afternoon. I lashed the heavy log on over the outrigger and went out anyway but with the deck constantly awash and the platform frequently  inundated sufficient to nearly sweep me overboard it was just too stressful and I ran back to the beach after a half hour and concentrated on throwing ropes over coconuts to pull them down with. After all this forced inactivity I am in a weakened state and can no longer climb the trees; the broken rib doesn’t help much either.

There is nowhere so lonely as a place full of happy people you don’t know. I am going out of my mind here, and whilst continuing my voyage also does not really appeal I am prepared to do it just to get the **** out of here whilst I still have any motivation left at all. Anything but more thumb-twiddling tedium, wandering from place to place, eating too much, drinking not enough. It is sapping my strength. I remember so fondly all those little villages I visited on the way here and how easy it was to fill the time just by joining in with whatever the fishermen were doing. I’ve managed a little volunteering here but have found nothing substantial enough to keep me amused. I suck as a tourist. Years ago I swore I would never again visit a poor country as a tourist – I would need to be working or on an expedition – but now I have become a tourist again by default and I really don’t like it.

Sorry, I am bitching. You think I am in the Caribbean and should be having a great time but the weather is more like something from the Outer Hebrides so the Caribbean aspect is absent and this has gone on so long it is getting very hard to be philosophical about it.

A light at the end of the tunnel! Crumpetina is coming over in 16 days! YAY!

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9 thoughts on “Mujeres, Prison Isle

  1. Mend 1st matey – no going out & compromising your chances of survival if you happen across a bloomin’ hurricane! Grief mate – put up with the wind & rain a bit – you lived in Wales long enough to get used to that. Get spruced up and feel better – give yourself a chance & stop bloody moaning – good grief – you’re sounding like a right Brit 😉 Bet you’ll feel like a different man in 3 weeks! xxx Take care & enjoy the aspects of the place that you complained weren’t in those little villages. Smiley tourists – it’s a sham – we’re all miserable buggers – it’s just when you’re a tourist you have to pretend you’re enjoying yourself ‘cos you’re paying top dollar! Twiddle them thumbs cap’n & get strong. 🙂 P

  2. Hi Chris. Have you broken free from the shackles of the “Prison Isle” yet? Beware of Cozumel’s allure then Chinchorro and lovely waters lie just south. Living through you. Rob M.

    • No Rob I’m still here. I’ve made a couple of rather feeble attempts to leave int he last few days but wound up back under the palms. I´ve had a bad cold and a few paid rides, and the wind has been oscillating way up and down, so all these things have made me waver. The weather is at last settling down a bit and I have used up most of the easily accessable coconuts so I have no more excuses. Everything is packerd up waterproof and ready to load so maybe tomorrow I return to uncertainty at sea!

    • Flaco, you are my inspiration! One of the few real men I have met. I often think of you riding balls-to-the-wall on the prow of a speeding lancha and I think “What would Flaco do?” in dubious situations.
      I ran into Chaparra here on Mujeres a couple of weeks ago and got a little news of Holbox.
      Nice store man.
      I hope to share a few more Superiors with you some time.
      Love, respect, Chris.

  3. Chris, I just discovered your trip and have been catching up. Make sure you’re healed and have your strength back before you venture far. Fair winds!
    Jeff

  4. Hola capitán.
    My name is mauricio , I live in Chicxulub 3 miles east of Progreso , and I´m been following your trip .
    You are amazing….congrats . for your enterprise . I agree with you Isla Mujeres is a very nice place , with its own flavor , we use to go there since 50 years ago , can you imaged that place…?

    I have a yawl 34 ft. and we have sailed a lot in the area , in this season from Sept. to May you will find hurricanes and nortes. Now the hurricane season is over and what you will find ocasionally are Nortes you allready have experienced , and on the caribbean side of yucatán are not very strong , now you can get info on NOAA ´s . But you will find that independent from this nortes that some time are strong also are week . there will be a BEAUTIFULL weather with the southersly wind .

    I´m a good friend of Mike Dutton also , Ok capt.
    Very nice to be in touch with you.
    Saludos
    Mauricio Mier y Terán C.

  5. You, a tourist? that is fine joke.
    Keep on posting and living that inspiring adventure i have been following in my armchair.
    Fair wind, Christian

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