Progress, Progreso


Aqui estoy mis amigos:

I haven’t time enough online to write up the story of the last week so this is just a brief one to keep you posted.


I left you at Champoton, worked past Campeche up the weird and deserted west coast of the Yucatan Peninsula to Celestun, then to Sisal, then Chelem, then left Chelem to make the last few kilometers to Progreso. I will try to write up this journey, it included one night anchored on the open ocean. As I approached Progreso at abot 10 am. what did I see? A whole bunch of sailing yachts pouring out of the harbor! These were the first sails I had seen in over a thousand kilometers of sailing so I was most interested, and could not resist the urge to give chase. They were clearly racing and the last of them were at least a kilometer ahead.

To cut a long story short it was a fast and exciting race of about 50km. I was absolutely thrilled especially on the reaches (sideways to the wind) where I caught up with six yachts and passed them like they were  going backwards. I beat six of the boats by about three kilometers but could not catch the big ones way out front due to my inability to work to windward as well as they can. When I reached the marina, one of many nested in a great enclosed harbor filled with many hundreds if not thousands of boats and ships I drew a big crowd on the dock, very friendly yachties. Mike Dutton put me up at his dock for free.

Oh long story. Many miles to walk in awful heat. Much thirst and hunger due to unwillingness to carry stuff far on foot, and business with boat. I have managed to wangle a spot in a shipyard and get hauled out so I can make modifications, a few things are bothering me. A reporter showed up and I took him sailing. His article in the paper was a big one ( I was front page of the “Local” section) but here is a clipped version online–define-su-destino-en-el-mar–.htm

I will be working on the boat here for at least a week. After that, onwards into the Caribbean sea, which is colder but clear and blue with sandy beaches and so far no serious waves or wind. I am looking forward to it.


7 thoughts on “Progress, Progreso

  1. History!!! You shall then cross over to the Pacific thru the canal and make Desesperado worthy of being called a Pacific Flying Proa. Once you attain that great feat, come pay me a visit in ES 🙂

  2. Cristobal fue interesante para nosotros conocerte y saber que aun existen personas como tu que llevan a cabo sus sueños y que deciden vivir una aventura que da ejemplo de vida, te deseamos lo mejor y que sigas tu travesía con éxito

  3. I got confused when I looked at your SPOT position reports. It looked as if you had bypassed Progresso entirely. Now I see you were off racing.

    So glad you are having some fun at last, showing up some of those yachties. I hope you made friends with some of them. They can be most helpful in finding stuff, and suggesting solutions; especially the poorer ones that do their own work on their boats. The ones that build their own boats usually have SHOPS with all sorts of woodworking machinery. Those are the ones that also have dreams of doing what you are actually doing. Good people to know!

    What are you modifying on the boat?

  4. Really enjoy your blog,.. and your proa pics. I am currently building one myself. Drop me an email and i will share some pics.


  5. Hola Cristobal!

    playa zapote te extraña! me dá alegria saber que por fin Desesperado encontró otros veleros!! y que tu puedas descansar en tierra firme y disfrutar de algunas comodidades de la vida, que bien te mereces! así como de unas ricas comidas con cervezas bien frias…… .
    muy buena la entrevista en el periodico de yucatan….. felicidades, y adelante con esta maravillosa aventura tuya y de desesperado!
    un abrazo, Maria Teresa

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