I am sorry I have time for only the briefest of reports.
Also my apologies for failing to send enough SPOT messages to satisfy. I have made sure to send at least one every evening from dry land, or at least land. Imagine though if Crumpetina had not bought me the thing…
I have been having a marvellous adventure and enjoying every minute of it, though in truth I have had only three days of actual sailing. I left Alvarado, the falling tide and a barely detectable breeze carrying me out of the lagoon to the sea where the water, the color of milky coffee, silently and smoothly humped and rolled in the most bizarre and otherworldly fashion. Dolphins met me again, then the boat turned itself south and for the whole day in a light and contrary wind I tacked along the coast, a range of greened dunes above miles and miles of deserted beach. Night was a camp at a random spot maybe 23 nautical miles along, after emptying the boat of its massive cargo and lugging it up the beach, then walking the vessel end for-end up the steep sand above the tideline. Unlike the previous night in Alvarado in which I did not sleep at all for the merciless mosquitos, this night was not bad despite the rain, a wind kept the buggers grounded and they did not bother me until morning. As at sea, where curious fishermen had visited me all day in their lanchas, I had some burro and horse-backed vaqueros come by. All very friendly but bemused by my presence and strange vessel. “There are no bad people here”, volunteeered one. Sounds like paradise.
The next day there was even less wind, and after a long becalming I finally rounded the headland at Roca Partida, and made another few miles towards Montepio. I tried to dodge a thunderstorm by sailing far out to sea, but it stayed in my path so I gave up and just went straight through it; it was no big deal, nice to have some wind. Montepio appeared charming from the sea, but I passed it and carried on, but as the wind failed again I headed inshore towards what looked likew a particfularly isolated and lovely beach. I later learned this was the beach featured in “Apocalypto”. The thought of a cold beer (for there were enough breaks in the generally grey skies to roast the hell out of me) at Montepio drove me to throw a coin which decided for a return so I doubled back and with the last wind just made it to the beach in front of the tiny town.
Almost immediately a jeep piled across the soft sand and over the ledge to my side. Galo the driver and ex-sailor invited me to stay at his fine house. In twenty years I have never seen a sail here¨ he exclaimed.
I have much to say about my three days´stay here (no internet or cell service: presently I am in San Andreas Tuxtla) but I have no time now. Were not Montepio so exquisitely beautiful and tranquil, at the foot of the verdant foothills of the volcano San Martin, and so full of natural wonders I might have left two days ago. The place is delightful; I am treated like royalty, swim in pools below waterfuls, slide along the cool river in a motorboat and out to sea, visit farms in the hills with happy and intensely pleasant people, sail the bay, eat beans and amaranth deep fried in strips, drink vodka with Galo, even the rain is lovely here… in short I think Montepio to be an undiscovered diamond, as close to a paradise as one could ever find in this world. It will hurt to leave. Tomorrow, weather permitting.